Bouldering grip strength reddit. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm A tennis ball grip workout is an excellent form of training. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. Regardless, yeah just keep climbing. I'm a software engineer that spends most of my time typing. I'd like to try climbing boulders but it I would like to loose flexibility or dexterity of my fingers and affect my guitar playing in a negative way. I normally do full body at the gym, but I was thinking of going rock climbing along with working out at the gym there. Question: What finger/grip strength training items do you use? I am a student and a lifeguard, so I have lots of time that I can do training exercises for my fingers while working or during lectures. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. It mimics using a fat bar/axle while being cheaper and portable. Hand strength and strong arms are helpful but his knowledge is why he can do this while others of similar upper body strength cannot. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Rope climbing, using a towel or a gi (if ur a martial arts boi) to do pulling exercises, fat grips (a silicone attachment for bars to make it thicker), farmer walks/carries, wrist flexion exercises, crushing grip exercises (COC hand grippers are great), pinching strength exercises (plate pinches or you can make ur own pinch grip attachment outta wood: look on youtube), deadhangs/active hangs Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Note, my crush strength with heavy grips is around 225lbs each hand, so a total of 450lb yet I still fail at 300lb deadlifts. Honestly, the grip strength that is practised in this sub is a little different from what you use in rock climbing in general. Sometimes weighted. Unless that’s what you mean by “support your own body weight” Reply reply TheBigSchmoJoe • I use them to just keep my crushing grip strength equivilant to my climbing strength. Concentrate on climbing each problem with crisp technique and smooth execution Does the GRIPMASTER pro hands tool work well in developing finger strength or is it more of a gimmick and could possibly injure my fingers. I'm kind of disappointed that my climbing grip strength didn't translate to deadlift. Climbing is all about manipulating your body and smaller guys have a greater strength to weight ratio. We have a similar device at our gym, it's very fun way to get a pulley injury Reddit's rock climbing training community. Work with gripper for a few weeks, and your results will improve vastly. My grip fails on certain holds. Not only will you not be able to adhere to a 1000 calorie per day diet, but you will also quickly lose muscle and strength as your body will go into starvation mode and begin consuming its own muscle. Jun 6, 2025 · Boost grip strength with the best workouts for lifters and climbers. The resiliency of tendon structures in the fingers contribute a lot to grip strength. Your hand would explode. About a year ago, I began indoor bouldering (rock climbing) and coming from a swimming/lifting background my grip strength is severely lagging. trueHey all — new caliber here. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. Presumably I could just buy some ash dowel for half the price (literally) and drill a hole through it. I understand that grip strength and finger strength are important for bouldering, and mine is pretty weak right now. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. However, I'd say your statement is rather true in the reverse way: If you want insane grip, you need to train specifically that. Recently got into rock climbing. It depends on your discipline (sport/bouldering) and what your climbing projects are, but generally I'd make the time to train the open hand on the hangboard. My fingers were strong as fuck though. Before starting your workout, do a few 10-15-second hangs and pull-ups on the largest holds your Reddit's rock climbing training community. Long story short, grip strength will not come quickly, it's built over time, and even further climbing grip strength specifically is all over the place, the best way to train it is on the wall. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip The closed crimp provides (some sources say) 17% increase in grip strength from an open crimp. It's one group in a (likely) 3-4 grip routine, so it doesn't take that much extra time. The most efficient way to improve strength is to dedicate training specifically to building strength (i. Relatively new-ish climber here, and while I agree that technique is a very important part that will allow you to climb harder routes without “muscling” your way through, I’ll also say that yes, grip strength is important. As for off-the-wall strengthening you can hangboard, to reduce the load initially you could use a rubber band or use a bigger edge, although if you struggle with hanging Redditors generally agree that bouldering can be a great workout for overall strength, particularly targeting the back, shoulders, and core muscles. I've been climbing consistently for a little over 6 months and I'm a 22yo male, 6'1" and about 160lbs. I don't think I'm quite up for hangboard training yet, and I don't want to hurt myself. Check it out! 14 votes, 14 comments. Mar 26, 2025 · You will gain strength in roughly 20 degrees of joint flexion in either direction from the grip you choose. Jun 15, 2023 · These boards feature holds that are grouped into uniform sets and laid out on a symmetrical grid, thus enabling you to target grip-strength for specific types of holds, such as pinches. Ideally, you should be able to climb the route in under 15 seconds. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Most grip trainers are semi useless. I train grip maintenance / pre-hab exercises 2 days a week. = STW (Strength-to-Weight ratio) What grade can they climb? As we previously found in past Grippul Challenges, Most climbers who are bouldering double digits between V10-V14 were able to pull 100%-130% of their body weight on the 15 degree crimp. At my gym v7 is where technique becomes a must if you dont have hulk level grip strength Theres a few v7 starts at my gym right now that felt impossible to do the first move, or even hold the start, until i figured out the right body positioning. There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. How to improve grip strength and underarm power without climbing Jan 19, 2024 · Climbing strength vs climbing resistance When talking about building climbing strength, we are basically talking about a whole lot of specific exercises that will help grow our overall performance. you should also include finger extensor exercises. I also reviewed the popular grip trainers for this post, so read on if you want to find out! Are Climbing Grip Trainers actually any good for climbers and boulderers? Yes grip trainers can improve your grip strength even when working a desk based job. Any grip-strength trainer, a malleable stress ball, or putty is a good way to start warming up your fingers. Try to find someone to coach you a bit, give you technique advice and critique your technique while climbing. My grip strength was sad when I first started, and it has improved significantly, but so has my technique. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Losing all grip strength early into bouldering sessions Hey guys, Little background on myself. It utilizes all: fingers, thumb, and even some wrist strength. I see people using vertically-oriented wooden cylinders for training grip (as well as spheres), and having googled them, them seem to be made of ash. However, there are great forearm exercise that you can do that are low impact and great for endurance training. Efficiency is as much of a factor as the raw strength and endurance. Jan 12, 2022 · Pinch strength is hard to gain and easy to ignore until you need it. Strength is important but you will gain enough strength from just focusing on climbing rather than workouts right now. I Boulder V2 and climb 5. It teaches you to grip properly and better yet it trains your claw grip which, frankly, many people neglect because its just too much effort. I’ve been at this for about a month and absolutely love it. If you want to improve your grip strength I would reccomend a lot of projecting, this will force you to use your grip, leading to strengthening and improve your technique (which is arguably more important than grip strength). I’ve noticed my form improve and I e gone from struggling with simple V2s to mastering tougher v3s. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Reddit's rock climbing training community. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. (And a lovely pastime) Grip strength for climbing is isometric so using the squeezy grip rod things has virtually no translation to crimpin' the proj. I'm I'll be climbing on jugs and my fingers start to feel completely like jelly and I can't grip the holds at all. I started Meh I disagree, grip strength and crimp strength can definitely be a limiting factor and I don’t think you can really develop that without climbing. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. r/climbharder climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. 8. 9s. Doing supplemental exercises won’t be AS effective for training as will simply bouldering more. Considering the number of joints involved in any given hold, that basically means you only really gain isometric strength for the exact hold being trained. I have been trying to improve my pinch grip. This involves a hard session of fingerboard and campus board and pinch grip exercises done in a sort of superset rotation. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. You have plenty of finger strength to hoist your entire body up at 10s, haha, I don't think it's a finger strength problem, although more finger strength can help you get away with more climbing mistakes. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. So just have fun and get up as many routes/boulders as you can. Approach training conservatively! The Basics of Getting Stronger Fingers Before climbers can try to get stronger fingers, you should start with healthy fingers. I have a good back and pulling strength but lack of grip strength is holding me back. 11 votes, 26 comments. I'm not doing any fingerboard or anything like that for several months, but I am doing hangs and farmers' walks to increase grip strength + the other benefits they have for shoulder mobility/strength and tension for heavy farmers Strength-to-Weight Formula Finger Strength (lb) / Body Weight (lb). Nov 4, 2016 · I've taken up bouldering once a week to work on strength for climbing, but find I have trouble completing any of the problems on the indoor wall I've been practicing on. As opposed to endurance or hypertrophy. That said, grip strength for climbing is a bit different as its locking you fingers and not crushing in your hand. I'm sure you could get a gripster and a stack of plates under your desk though. What’s everyone’s opinions on rock climbing as an alternative to going to the regular gym, or just to a regular workout? Mind you, I can mix grip the same weight perfectly for 5 reps. I was just looking for recommendations for things that I can use while my mind is on something else. Grip strength is specific to the hand position. You can get very strong just bouldering 2-3x per week, it will build very good core and pulling strength in addition to the obvious grip strength. 1. : r/bodyweightfitness     Go to bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness Reddit's rock climbing training community. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jul 16, 2022 · Grip strength is a core element of climbing. Something I really struggle with is grip strength - as soon as a hold is anything other than the very easiest ones to hold onto I just fall straight off. I was a rock climbing for 5 years and while my grip was better than average, I wasn’t spectacular at holding onto deadlifts. Incorporate various grip types, such as open hand, crimp, and pinch, to target different muscles. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. I would say that this is both because finger strength is just so important for climbing, and combined with technique, I would think that a lot of need for pull and body strength could be negated by having sufficient amount of the other two factors. Now start leaning back and try to file you weight . How to train grip strength Of all the physical components that contribute to your climbing ability, none is more important than grip strength. Allthough they are still fun to dabble with for me. I currently weigh ~175lbs and deadlift 485 (455 with switch grip, no straps) which seems like reasonable grip strength for my weight. Generally even if I can try things like outside edges, flags, drop knees and other ways to move my weight to get to the next hold, my grip slips before I can get there. . While reading this sub and other sources I realize that most climbers/boulderers mostly train for strength. Things like finger extensors, pronators, easy grippers, rice bucket work, baoding balls etc. Any advice from climbers with a similar story? /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Aug 14, 2021 · Now that you know what grip positions you are looking for on the bouldering wall, here are Hӧrst’s suggestions for utilizing bouldering to increase grip strength: Select a short bouldering problem that appears to isolate a specific grip position. The muscular strength and tendon strength will develop in due time, focus on the things you can control right now and improve those. You can't grip with greater force than the structures themselves can withstand. That being said, if you have consistent back pain, PLEASE see a doctor before bouldering or climbing. Is this something that’ll naturally improve as I progress or is there something I should be doing to target it? Tl;Dr: there are different types of strength, for instance, a guy who carries bricks all day might have better grip strength than a weightlifter and in this case they might have better balance, grip endurance and grip to weight ratio, so brick carrying "strength" would transfer better to climbing than weightlifting in this imaginary scenario. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Grip strength/finger and hand strength help I'm very new to bouldering but am enjoying it a lot! I've been going once or twice a week for about a month and a half. If they exist, what is typical for say grades V6 -V11/12? 120 votes, 28 comments. (Want to find the perfect grip-strengthening routine for your current climbing level? Our quick assessment quiz can create a personalized training plan just for you!) Whether you're completely new to grip training or seeking /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. To add my own 2 cents: Bouldering is a great workout. I'm looking for some advice and discussion on significantly increasing grip strength for rock climbing. However, some users suggest incorporating additional exercises or routines to complement the climbing experience and achieve a more complete workout. It will build muscle, and it will burn calories (although weight loss is won in the kitchen). If I get to this point it means my grip strength is giving up before the rest of my body did, which means I've been overgripping, and I try to make it a point to focus on using less grip strength during my next session. Before obtaining that Reddit's rock climbing training community. Has anyone felt like the grip trainers are fun but don't carry over to real world grip strength? I’m all on board the strength train when it comes to slopers: four and three fingers open hand, plus wrist, shoulder, chest, and upper back/lat strength. Does having a good grip strength help? Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. Recovery time is critical for strength and injury prevention. However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. And yes we are scared of falling. My question to the people of climbharder is: What way was the most efficient for you to improve your pinch grip? Was it through climbing routes Gonna make a table of contents so we don't have to scroll through this whole page. Obviously you will progress faster if you take a more targeted approach to training than just Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip You're probably better off using a rubber band or other device to work your finger extensors at work as consistent antagonist training. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip - Even if your grip strength is absolutely terrible, static hangs aren't the ideal exercise right now (until you're really working on problems at the gym that require grip strength, avoid hang boards all together). Discover our selection of the 5 best grip strengtheners for climbing. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Bottomline is, even if grip strength is as important as you're making it out to be, what evidence do you have that hangboarding is more effective at building finger strength than simply climbing? You’re probably putting too much stock in the grip strength thing and ending up hyper focusing on over gripping the hand causing you to maybe not utilize your feet / body position/ angle on the hold the best way. Note that hangboarding can cause finger injury if not performed carefully. Your view around weight loss for climbing are not based in reality and insanely unhealthy. The home of Climbing on reddit. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. That said, I still struggle immensely with smaller, thinner holds. Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. Any tips are great. Here’s how you improve it. While a few weeks is not long enough to guage it's usefulness personally, I've noticed some more confidence in grip strength. Train on climbing days so you can rest your hands at least one day after. Routines Basic Routine Mass Building Increase Deadlift Grip Bodyweight and Calisthenics Rock Climbing (Hangboard) Grappling Martial Arts Grippers Arm Wrestling Cheap and Free Grip Training I just want something to do at my desk - (this post is in the other thread) Other Wiki Topics How to get started Grip on a Working on making my pinch grip stronger. How do I train my forearms proactively (in my workout programming) so that as I lose weight, I can occasionally go bouldering and not have wrecked forearms and diminished grip for several days after? I've been indoor bouldering for about 2 months and want to start developing my finger strength. A lot of the strength and endurance required for climbing is unique to climbing and difficult to get from other sports. When training your grip strength (which is mostly reliant on isometric forearm strength), you only gain strength around ~15 degrees of the angles of the joints being trained. I have read that you can either improve your pinch grip (wide or narrow) through climbing routes with the grips you are trying to improve or by doing hangboarding/no hangs with the grips you wish to train. Grip Strength training Just got off a 2 hr sesh yesterday, I'm a relatively new climbing enjoyer. I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. But I was wondering if aluminium tube could do the same job Muscles in the forearms contract the fingers, so "finger strength" is "forearm strength". If you I think the idea is that if your forearms / finger strength is failing while bouldering, that means that bouldering is more than enough to gain strength in those regions. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. I climb about 2-3 times a week with plenty of rest days. A hang board would be ideal, but they can be pricey and difficult to install. A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. But it transfers well. These adapters can turn any exercise into a grip exercise. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. Be gentle, am newb (to bouldering, coming from a strength training background). Hello, well that is the question. How do i improve my grip strength? So i wanted to improve my grip strength for a while and i finally got some adjustable grip trainers from MP and my final goal is to hang from one of the panels over my door. You can check out r/climbharder for specific finger training and hangboard routines. Reddit's rock climbing training community. strength training). I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. I think perhaps I have a fairly strong sporting / weightlifting background prior to climbing, so I had a great baseline of strength/flexibility/tension (+ even pinch grip) coming in - and have overcompensated using these at the expense of developing finger strength. If you plan to hang at the end of a climbing session, make sure you save enough energy to train hard. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger strength gains. If you could only do one exercise for grip, fat bar work will give the best bang for the buck. Just go climb a lot, focus on improving your technique. e. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. These are relatively small, light muscles. Indoor boulderer here. It’s also not a bad idea to do a short jog or some push-ups and core exercises to get the blood flowing first. I feel like my technique has improved a lot, but I always end up bailing due to grip fatique -- my forearms eventually just give out. This all keeps the muscles balanced which reduces chance for injury. Things like grip strength and being confident enough to relax your grip enough to not wear yourself out can be just as important as raw strength early on. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. Jun 3, 2025 · Incorporating grip strength into a training program depends on your level and training goals. Im a little disappointed with my actual grip strength after today's battle ropes workout. All the pro climbers are relatively slight, because climbing requires excellent grip and tendon strength, but not much absolute strength. A lot of climbers use a hang board to increase there grip strength and endurance, would this be good to transfer over to wrestling or would it just be a waste of time? Climbing and pull exercises alone can be pretty taxing without additional training. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. Mar 25, 2022 · Plus 10 bouldering Tired of your home-wall workouts or of sending the same boulder problems at the gym? Strap on a 10-pound weight belt and you’ll have a powerful grip-strength and power workout! After an extended warm-up, climb a circuit of five to 10 moderate boulder problems (a few V-grades below your limit). Our favorite is How to get stronger grip,endurance, and more explosiveness without a climbing gym? : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit Im looking into getting into bouldering, I have zero experience so im not really sure where to start. These may include functional strength training, antagonist training, and exercises targeting the The single biggest obstacle to my progression onto harder climbs has been grip endurance. It's most important to note, a closed crimp doesn't put you at much more risk than an open crimp, but a closed crimp does increase the risk for injuries, particularly with pulleys. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Any suggestions on how to improve my grip strength? I heard there are a few drill-free products that you can mount onto your door to do precisely that, any recommended brands in mind? thanks in advance! Jun 27, 2023 · 5 Exercises to Improve Your Grip Strength for Rock Climbing The best rock climbing tips for beginners center on developing crucial grip and finger strength foundations. The training can be intensive and repetitive, so do it in small doses and only once you’ve built a decent base of strength from general bouldering. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Utilize grip strength tools like grip trainers or tennis balls for specific conditioning. Built a little routine to train it, want some critique. I feel like past… Grip strength helps feel safe and go longer, biceps strength at full extension helps on overhangs, but core strength (being able to keep tension throughout your body as you climb) constantly comes up as the #1 thing you will always use. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. Just be careful, its easy to over do it with grip/finger training. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. All of those things felt like they really kickstarted my grip strength more than grippers. ( if anyone knows any good subreddits to ask what shoes to buy, let me know) Many say bouldering is great practice for the obstacles, but what level of bouldering should I target to feel comfortable with grip strength and ability to carry my own weight? Olympus and the z wall seem most applicable but interested in people's perspectives. If your forearm muscles are decent, it's just a matter of getting used to using your strength for crushing grip. Thanks for your answers! If you’re hangboarding at home and can’t climb to warm up, improvise. It's possibly a grip duel device, kinda like arm-wrestling, but for grip strength. A place for posting and discussing Grip Strength, including but not limited to feats of grip strength, grip or arm lifting competitions, technique critiques and hints and tips. That is, low rep, high intensity with progressive overload, eg 5x5 pullups with weights etc. Which will make you better at rock climbing. Feb 17, 2023 · I train climbing grip strength one day a week only. There is a rock climbing gym by my house, that has tons of walls and stuff, along with tons of exercise equipment kinda like a gym area. Training the claw grip adds tremendous power and is a stepping stone to ripping cards, folding frying pans etc. My advice is: please don't. Any recommendations for wrist, grip, and finger exercises to get a better hold? Specifically exercises I can do on days off from climbing, with little to no equipment (unless there’s something so awesome that you can’t not recommend it) (Also I can’t put a hang board in my apartment) Thanks y’all! Its less about grip strength and more about tendon strength which develops incredibly slow and tendons also heal slow if you injure them, your priority as a beginner should be developing good footwork and body positioning. I have a conventional pull-up bar and was wondering whether doing finger hangs is an effective way to develop finger strength (rather than using a hangboard)? Thanks! The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. Just keep climbing! Even if your issue is physical strength more mileage would be my answer. This is the single most important aspect for a beginning climber. The alternative would be using tools like grip trainers, improvised exercises, or committing more resources to go climbing more often. What is the optimal way apart from climbing "pinch" routes to get the tendons / muscles stronger in this area? I've been reading a lot about pinch blocks, my question is how do you train with pinch blocks, is it better to train really heavy (for optimal strength) or is it better to train mid weight and get some good endurance in those pinches? I feel my pinch is lacking compared to other areas You'd be surprised how much coordination goes, probably a lot of what's missing is the coordination and control. There’s a lot of technique in sloper climbing, but those same positions are often murder on your shoulders, so it helps to have good movement/mobility and strength in very wide positions. Been gym climbing for about 8 months, I'm only working up to 5. Going double overhand on deadlifts, using thickbars/fatgrips, pinching and curling plates. How do I improve my technique? bouldering for about 4 weeks slowly working my way up, but I feel like I’m learning some bad habits that won’t help me in the long run, plus can’t wait to buy shoes. Jan 1, 2025 · To increase grip strength for rock climbing, focus on exercises like hangboard training and wrist curls. The most precise definition of strength in rock climbing or bouldering is the ability to hold on to various holds, but a strong rock climber doesn’t only have a great grip. What other exercises can i do to improve my grip strength?' Archived post. Any tips or little things you could make/buy as a tool to increase this? I've thought about using some old 2x4's to hang weights from so I can use it around the house when not at the gym. From tufas to aretes and even crack climbing, it pays to pinch. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Watch some technique videos! You could probably sum up climbing prowess from strength, flexibility and technique. Rock climbing will certainly do more for upper body muscle than say, cycling. So I decided to start training properly. You will see some difference, but you will not really get beyond a novice level of strength. I don't know if that really makes sense but I'd like to know what is your experience! Thank you! I salute you from Argentina, land of Messi and Charly Garcia! Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort I investigated a bit, and tried to find out as much as possible. With that information in mind, when do you think I should train pinches or shouldn't I train them at all? It doesn't seem like a good idea to train grip strength on the days I don't climb, but the training quality would probably not be that good after 3 hours of climbing, either. Found out today my grip strength is extremely weak, should i look into this further? So today i had one of those pre-employment medicals, part of it was the physio testing various things, range of movement etc. Will rock climbing instead of gym grip exercises produce similar results for general gripping strength and endurance? A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Unlike an axle bar, it can even be used with dumbbells. Learn how to train crush, support, pinch, and wrist strength with proven exercises, recovery tips, and supplements. How you might want to think about grip strength You would also want to consider how different body types give you different advantages. Grip training when you've only been climbing for a week is like putting race tires on a VW bus. Hello there, I started climbing about 10 months ago, got addicted and I feel like reached my first plateau. I recently started finger rolls as a rehab exercise and specifically started more isolated forearm exercises like wrist curls in order to address some weakness in open hand strength on slopers and compression climbing. After his initial grip, he is extremely mindful of where he is putting his feet and how he is shifting his weight. If you learn correct technique right Open a door , stand in front of the latch side , approx 50cm (or more if you feel comfortable) bend your legs and pinch 🤏 grip the door. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. For beginners and those in their second season, bouldering is a great way to build grip strength. kdu bwd srgxnx vgjcbe feiqs zokmzt wrf zjog cdphbe jisab