Climbing sling strength chart reddit.
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Climbing sling strength chart reddit. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. It's not really an issue in practice, and certainly doesn't need to be one. I get it. Next one I'm considering is the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust that user archiacfrost linked to. Leg loops are now shoulder straps, we move the buckles around, cut out the gear loops and put them on some webbing, added the chest strap with some Feb 11, 2016 · Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. This is my shopping cart with my reasoning beside it. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. As opposed to endurance or hypertrophy. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Strength-to-Weight Formula Finger Strength (lb) / Body Weight (lb). They're just talking about the sling strength, right? Most carabiners are in the 20-30 kN range, so wouldn't the carabiner be the point of failure in most of those setups? I guess you could just double up the biners Drawbacks of Dyneema Climbing Slings If Dyneema is the same strength as nylon, but much lighter, smaller and more abrasion and water resistant, why would you ever get nylon slings? Before you throw out your nylon slings, consider the drawbacks of Dyneema: - Dynamic absorption - Durability - Cost - Melting point - Slickness Dynamic Absorption Nylon slings don't lose strength due to age the way Dyneema slings seem to (ref. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Even if I was at the park, having <8kN breaking strength on one leg of an anchor would bother me even though the force is being distributed across 4 when basketed. Having said that, even a girth hitch only reduces the strength of the sling by ~50% so your sling will still be pretty strong. Same thing can be done with prusik cords. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. I feel pretty uncomfortable anchoring in to one via a single sling, or a PAS, and I'd like to have some redundancy going on. It also sounds like you need some rest days. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. For slings mark the tag, not the sling material. Where I climb, the top outs are generally two open-shuts. trueI'd be ready to do all three if I were you. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. Hey all, Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. DAV study), wear and abrasion have been shown to be the useful predictor of strength and yours look downright pristine. When it comes to climbing, slings are the connecting link between you, the wall and your belay device – a symbiosis that requires both trust and a certain amount of technical know-how. Is it safe to girth hitch two separate slings through your tie in loops, and then use biners to clip one to each open shuts as a means of Jan 5, 2022 · Tools Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer The Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers are. re-slinging trad gear? Last night my friend (who is probably reading this) and I were discussing the safety of using accessory cord to re-sling hexcentrics. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. On the other hand, PE slings that were older than ten years, but used rarely, had lost a lot of strength. Hi! I was wondering what some of the classic strength benchmarks of our sport are? I am thinking: 1-5-9 (also what size edge are these usually completed on?) One arm 20 mm hang (lattice edge for instance) One arm chin-up Any others? Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. 8 kN. How much do you get out each year? How abrasive is the rock you climb on? To answer your question: I think you take a 20% hit in strength even with a perfectly tied water knot. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. What I would prefer seeing is how this test occurs with a dynamic rope in the system. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. How much do you get out each year? How abrasive is the rock you climb on? Do you climb in direct sunlight a lot? All of these questions, and others, influence the answer to your question. Available in six sizes, the new friends are vying for a place on your rack with burly anodized aluminum lobes, an ergonomic thumb loop, extendable Dyneema slings, and a size/color scheme that matches other top brands like Black Diamond and DMM. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. So while climbing my stuff is well organized and easy to deal with What do you do when you take off all your slings, how do you store them/keep them organized and untangled? Is it safe to extend a toprope anchor like this with two slings? Im concerned about redundancy in the slings. 5kg (82. Use of slings to extend protection can indirectly reduce impact force by straightening the rope path and thus reducing friction, because friction reduces the rope's ability to stretch and absorb energy. I’ve been reading about how girth hitches weaken slings, and the documentation that comes with my slings specifically says that 2 girth hitches will reduce strength to 11KN. They get in the way on your harness/over the shoulder and are just bulky as fuck. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). Jan 30, 2018 · The Wild Country Friends takes old single axle, thumb loopless design, and updates this classic to compete neck and neck with modern cams. Skinny dyneema is the way to go. Can we have an ELI5 on force factors and kilonewtons? I feel like it's a really important topic that is often not talked about because it's confusing and easy to unintentionally misinform. I've noticed a curious suggestion for isometric exercise: The following guidelines govern isometric training protocol: Intensity—maximal effort Effort duration—5 to 6 s Rest intervals—approximately 1 min if only small muscle groups, such as calf There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. Hell, they’re significantly stronger than my weaker non heat treated In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. Read pro's and con's and best uses (and see full explanations for each along with links to geek out even further). which is +37. Here's a link to remind us why ropes break at the knot and here's a link to remind us why knotted slings are more dangerous than sewn slings FWIW dyneema knots will slip more than nylon knots, making the second video more appropriate for this thread. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress. Girth hitch. Notice the chart showing factor one and two falls on their dynamic lanyards versus nylon and dyneema slings. Obviously climbing is number one! Relatively new to sport climbing, and I'm curious about something. Rather than using one sling, is it still safe to use two like this? If there's any doubt, I'll just extend the master point with slings. If you can do BOTH and also make sure you are recovering well, then rock on. Basically as long as you're doing enough volume on your raw bench, there's no need to add partials or slingshot work. BD 18mm nylon Jul 2, 2024 · Tying a knot in rope, cord or sling decreases the strength. That is, low rep, high intensity with progressive overload, eg 5x5 pullups with weights etc. I've seen this done before with people cutting off the leg loops and just using the waist belt as an over the shoulder sling. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. These cams Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the two top bolts? Nail polish. I don't know if it matters in this situation, top rope doesn't exactly generate high forces. Keep in mind that, unlike these tests, in most climbing situations where you'd fall on a sling, you're falling on a dynamic rope clipped to the sling. Based on this picture, it looks like you wrapped two double length slings around the table leg, then threaded two additional slings through the loops in those, then finished with two opposed lockers. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. 165 votes, 26 comments. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. This article covers carabiner size, shape and gate, as well as sling length and how many quickdraws to have. CF%Bw is an incredibly strong correlation with climbing grade (R 2 =. Remember that weathered tree tat you were eyeing? Or how ‘bout that 20-year-old rope you found sitting in a basement completely unused? Rest assured. If your other option is a water knot tied sling, that has 60% strength. Unsure of how to choose carabiners in terms of weight bearing capabilities. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). To your comment of "slings are rated to a force they can withstand" keep in mind that the usual and sometimes flawed assumption of adding knots to an X actually reduces the slings strength. 5 can vary from 0. it's dangerous. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally 20 votes, 39 comments. For example, I have some 6mm rope that is rated for 18 KN. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). Use two to three different drops of color to differentiate from someone else's gear. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Overhand+clip both ends. Thin Dyneema slings in particular need to be treated with caution with respect to aging. Grip strength and technique, and some research on how to optimize your training routine to focus on climbing-specific strengths. I’ve been doing a lot more with accessory rope recently and it always blows my mind how strong it is. That is about 50% stronger than my 10mm dynamic rope. Generally with knots (this goes for ropes, slings and accesorry cord) every turn reduces the strength of the knot. sling or closed cordlette). That build up of finger strength has taken years over many hangboard cycles. And yes we are scared of falling. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! Best Use Cases: Tubular webbing is often used in situations where flexibility and knot-tying capabilities are important, such as in rock climbing where knots need to be easily adjustable and retrievable. A 180 degree angle between slings but aligned with the load will produce no force multiplication. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. A lot of the issues with the other thread was people calling things the wrong fucking thing and providing information that was both incorrect and confusing. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. A 15 foot fall produces around 2000 lbf. While reading this sub and other sources I realize that most climbers/boulderers mostly train for strength. I had a retired Misty Mountain Cadillac, so my buddy and I turned it into a gear sling for aid climbing. And if they're bothering to use Sling Strength, they may also have Molt Vigor on their frame to further increase power strength once they cast Void Strike. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. It's also commonly used in sling configurations for climbing protection. This one is a brand new Mammut nylon attached on a carabiner and this happened after it took some friction on a anchor. You can even buy grip strength training things if you don't climb more than two or three times a week, and some for your fingers (they're cheap). Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Easy to understand. They are perfect for trad climbing since they can be doubled up easily on smaller bolt anchors, make 4 piece trad anchors no problem, and are long enough to sling around boulders or trees. The home of Climbing on reddit. This can drastically reduce (depending on amount of rope in the system, diameter/condition of rope) the forces on the slings compared to the tests done on this video. Taking it slow, learning a lot. g. And yes I do remember being above the static anchor few times when setting up a top rope (I believe that's the most common case of climber being anchored with sling above the static anchor). Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Feedback much appreciated: Rope 9. ) Is there much of a difference in strength loss between cord and webbing? What about nylon vs. Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. This link is a table of their findings, based on the force of a tree acting as a lever in high winds It’s apples and oranges. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. You don't want big fat slings. It's also a good idea to also learn the techniques directly from someone. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. Core strength allows you to hold your body position in ways that let you “lock off” to avoid movements that peel you off the wall such as barn dooring. This takes probably 3-4 years. So I've developed a really strong 'strength' base, and starting to focus on building out my relative weaknesses better and getting re-focussed on performing on rope vs boulders. Learn how to buy quickdraws. KP and the QC Lab crew head to the testing room to answer your age-old question … how strong is it? A huge uncertainty is how “accurately” the boulders in your area are graded and what type of boulders you are climbing. For example, imagine a new climber cleaning some sport anchors with a pair of slings and lockers. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. For example for slab climbing body strength usually matters very little. Additionally, if you have at least a 2 point equalized anchor, your partner's fall would need to generate twice the breaking strength of sling for it to fail. 16 votes, 22 comments. I'm So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. 13+ is pretty massive So it's not ridiculous deadly. I climb with my shoulder lengths over one shoulder each with their own biner. 11- to 5. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. I'm trying to extend my top rope anchor a few feet. It might make more sense in the long run, and $ wise, to use one single length of static rope to tie all the trees into a master point. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Even if that relationship is linear (doubtful), that means you have minimum 210 climbing days before approaching 50% strength, based on exposure. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. 60 votes, 14 comments. I have a full set of hexes that are old enough that rope was used to create the slings. trueThe chart basically just says that, among people observed at X grade, they tend to be able to pull Ylbs. 12 votes, 46 comments. So I decided to start training properly. A while back there was talk about the strength of common trees for climbing anchors. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also… To answer your question: I think you take a 20% hit in strength even with a perfectly tied water knot. They probably wouldn't be using any of the Eternal arcanes because they only affect the Operator, and you said once their energy is depleted they pop back into their Warframe. Girth hitches reduce the strength of the sling while they are tied, just like all knots. Hi guys and girls, I was wondering what width of prusik cord you all use to make yourself safe when setting up top ropes and… Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. Girth hitch only allows you to use a closed loop (e. With quite some test data I created a model to check your climbing abilities by a number of exercises. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. Maybe that's to save weight? Tell me what you think! And if you want to mention the sling you use, feel free! I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Basket hitch over narrow radius would be interesting too, imo, but isn't used in climbing much. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. So we tested it. Those strengths add together. Looking to add a sling to assemble a quad anchor for top rope climbing where it would be best to have extension over the (relatively rounded) edge. That said, SWL isn't really referred to in climbing contexts because it's not very relevant. 6 million pounds. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also… This means that it took at least 70 climbing days for the slings to decrease in strength by 16%. We went all out. If you look at front levers and leg raises and similar exercises you can find parallels in climbing. “In spite of that, we found PE slings that were older than ten years, but had been used rarely and still exhibited very high strength. How are force factors measured? What is a kilonewton? How do force factors correlate to kilonewton ratings on carabiners/other gear? What situations would possibly over load gear? Add any other questions you 24 votes, 29 comments. The two . Hey all, I'm looking into a making a few alpine draws as I slowly get into trad climbing. Apr 2, 2021 · We compiled data from 600+ rock climbers to find sport-specific strength and endurance standards that can help you know where to focus your training efforts. Around 2 hours climbing, 1 lifting. Hello, I'm pretty new to this but from what I found and understood knots significantly reduce ropes/slings strength, which makes sense. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. Moving forward, I’d like continue some sort of finger flexor max strength training on my climbing days, whether that be a strength focussed hangboard protocol, or no hang pulls. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee The strength curve is completely different from the regular raw bench. If you use two similar slings it's can be up to 80% strength. A rethreaded is what you tie in to your harness, although in your case you're using an additional rope (as others pointed out, this can be super dangerous) A Flemish bend is the correct way to join two ropes in this instance. 5 and 3 hours on working days. Feel free to check it out… 15 votes, 12 comments. It's not like dyneema slings with overhand knots are required for anything. MYTH: tying knots in dynex/BD slings should NEVER be done?? My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. Discover the fascinating world of slings and runners: From the many ways to use them down to how to choose the right one for your very own climbing adventure I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. How’s that even possible? Aren’t these used for anchors and suppose to withstand such use? : r/climbing r/climbing • by Sailost2000 View community ranking Yep, stitching isn't as strong but as a sling daisy is full strength anyway. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. We have ropes, cord, nylon slings that work great and don't fail under these unrealistic tests like dyneema. Knot Strength: Weakens the sling by 40- 60%, sling strength reduced down to 8. Honestly there are a lot of ways to get better at climbing, the single most important thing is, to avoid injury. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. The pro will likely give out before the sling breaks in any of these configs, and the sliding X will shock load the remaining pieces. 8mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope Webbing 4 x 18cm nylon sling - Runners 2 x 17cm dogbone-style quickdraw sling - Recommended by Climbit 2 x 25cm dogbone-style Between 2. 604) and the magnitude of improvement in CF%bw when going from 5. Edit: For the rope I use nail polish again on the smooth and hardened melted ends of the rope. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Maybe gotta sling a couple boulders and build into an anchor, or sling one really big Boulder, or maybe there’s just a tree! If I’m on bolts I generally will not do the sliding-x but rather tie a know to have a solid master point. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Stick the sling round and clip both ends (aka basket hitch). 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. I replace my slings when they are fuzzy enough to make me worry about them. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. Straightforward. 7 pounds) with two arms. All of your If you are replacing climbing with strength training, and your goal is to improve climbing, then that is not so good. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. IMO, the answer is that climbing is an extremely technical sport with incredibly high levels of strength required in the forearms and lats at the high level, and a moderate amount of strength (from an athletic standpoint) required in the other major muscle groups. Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. People assume that the associated variables (finger strength, pull strength, ) cause the performance increase but that’s actually pretty murky. Been reading FOTH and John Long to figure out what I need to get. ” I assume this is a typo and the first sentence should read Reddit's rock climbing training community. Interesting chart relating body weight to impact forces. Tape eventually falls off and creates trash at crags. (While it varies depending on the material and the type of knot, a conservative rule of thumb is about 50%. I don't recall the Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Either dmm or wild country did extensive tests (n>>>>1) that showed sewn slings with properly smoothed holes actually resulted in failure of the aluminum before the sling. The metal is in good condition so I went ahead and replaced the slings with brand new accessory cord. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. Can I get away with 8mm width on a Dyneema sling? I think this has been a huge factor in my success in route climbing. Hello there, I started climbing about 10 months ago, got addicted and I feel like reached my first plateau. It's even annoying building anchors with them. Now you’re completely on top of each other. I looked at the BD Neutrinos but they seem a bit on the small side. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). 3 to 0. That tiny rope is 75% the strength of my heat treated aluminum carabiners that are double it’s width. Uses: Sling a bollard or tree, Extending a cam loop, Simple and effective way to attach a sling to your harness. Saturday is power endurance. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. Based on data taken from some of the Lattice guys' research papers (Giles 2020 and 2019; links below), forearm Critical Force as a percentage of bodyweight (aka your 'all-day' rate) is a huge factor in sport climbing performance. Grip and finger strength is usually the limiting factor on easier problems. Keep in mind that the strength rating for these cords are for a single strand. I'm curious what biners are commonly used. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. Climbing-wise, roughly speaking, Tuesday is a light day either drills or slab because it's a beast of a lifting day. : r/climbing r/climbing • by Griff_Hamsley View community ranking Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. = STW (Strength-to-Weight ratio) What grade can they climb? As we previously found in past Grippul Challenges, Most climbers who are bouldering double digits between V10-V14 were able to pull 100%-130% of their body weight on the 15 degree crimp. Safe working load is usually significantly lower, around 1/5th of the breaking strength. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Climbing spec is relatively weak already, and tying a water knot in the webbing to make a sling will reduce that by up to 50%. If you make an equalized three point anchor, very common in trad climbing, then your master point actually has three strands of cord. When the rope is in play that is the dynamic component of the system. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! Reddit's rock climbing training community. Elongation of sling material is marginal and irrelevant except in the special case of direct tethering to an anchor. In Korea where sport climbing is plentiful so stocking up on my first serious gear buy. While a few feet of climbing rope would in theory preserve the integrity of the system, I can envision scenarios in which there would be no rope. 1. The steeper the angle of the turn, the higher the decrease of strength. There are slightly different methods depending on location, I suggest looking up what's the norm where you'll be climbing and estimate your need from that. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which I've been reading Science and Practice of Strength Training just to get a better base of understanding of the fundamentals of strength training. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. Strength is not an issue as they are all basically the same (22kn). Reply [deleted]• [removed] Reply alottasunyatta • Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. The angle between the slings doesn't actually matter, it's the angle between the slings and the load that counts. My double lengths go around my shoulder and clip into itself. As… I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Dyneema? What about a standard anchor configuration with a knotted sling? Do multiple knots in the same cord decrease the strength Safe working load is usually significantly lower, around 1/5th of the breaking strength. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Then you can factor in the strength reduction that the knot introduces into your anchor. Critically, it does not establish that increasing your pull will cause an increase in climbing performance. I bought bunch of slings awhile ago so I can have backup when I need one. Yes I would love to see some hitch strength tests. Basically you want to avoid knots where possible, they have a big effect on the strength of the sling. Reddit's rock climbing training community. PROBLEM: I put knots in slings to make my anchors redundant everytime (serene). Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. Thursday is project bouldering because it's sandwiched by rest days from pulls. smaller cams are more likely to be janked up slings get worn out, so check those extra closely the newer stuff is generally way nicer than the older stuff good used cams are only slightly cheaper in my experience its more expensive overall to buy a nice set of cams to replace a crappy set you got cuz they were cheaper. Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. I do Fig 8 equalization when using a sling/cordelette as the power point. ewiseqtzeoyxdmkdfrrjlelwvssfjiqajpulbqleyfbuubuh